Panama Don Julian Pacamara
Cup Characteristics: Chocolate and floral aromatics. Exotic, big prune, raisin, fig, plum flavors with a hint of portabello. Big, beefy Pacamara with dark fruit dominance. Hickory background notes and cedar. Lots of body; brooding, long finish. Big, sturdy and structured. A real achievement.
$49.99 per pound
First offering of this new crop Panama which happens to be one of our all time favorites. This coffee was highly regarded during the 2016 Best of Panama competition. Last May we were lucky enough to visit the farm where this incredible coffee is grown. Upon arrival to the farm it became clear that the extraordinary taste of the coffee is a direct result of the extraordinary characteristics of the farm. At first perusal you might assume you are walking through a nature conservatory where coffee trees are surrounded by plants and wildlife of all sorts and enormous shade trees pillar above. It is no accident that the farm is in such a state of preservation since the owner, Mrs. Burneskis, feels that the farm should be left in as natural a state as possible. She has a level of respect and connectivity for the coffee plants that really comes to light when you walk through the sprawling greenery. Her unconventional and untamed methods of managing her farm are evident in the cup, giving the consumer an experience that starts with the nurturing mentality of Mrs. Burneskis and her dedicated staff and ends with a stellar and unique cup of coffee.
Please note that this coffee may not be available elsewhere in the US. There is only a small amount produced and most of it heads to Asia where there is a waiting market. Since we have been big supporters of this coffee for years, predating its award wins and growing reputation, Mrs. Burneskis wanted to make sure that we had at least a small allocation. The price is considerably higher than it was a few years ago but well worth it.
Pacamara is a varietal hybrid of Bourbon; it is a cross between the Pacas variety discovered in El Salvador and the very large Maragogype bean. The mixture at its best produces very deep, brothy flavors that always seem reminiscent of dark fruit like plums, raisins, prune. While not overbearing or something that is likely to become tiresome, Don Julian is pretty easy to pick out of a crowd. On the cupping table with seven other coffees in the same flight it was not difficult to know which it was. It was and is delightful.
The farm is located in Boquete Panama at about 1600 meters they have been growing Pacamara in its rich, black volcano soil for some years. We can remember tasting it in 2006 and it well may have been there at an earlier date. The growing area is in a protected tropical rainforest farm that gives a unique flavor, great acidity and bold body to form a richly complex cup.
A view of the Horqueta Mountains with the Barú Volcano in the distance.
This is the third year that we are able to offer this coffee which is otherwise hard to come by due to the majority of the market being located in Asia. We are pleased to have a relationship with this farm and look forward to maintaining it for years to come. The coffee after harvest underwent traditional washed processing at Casa Ruiz where it was later finish when dry milled. After purchasing the coffee was vacuum packed to our specifications and shipped in boxes to our roasting plant.
Can you find the coffee trees within this preserve?