Panama Ninety Plus Perci Gesha Natural
Cup Characteristics: A very striking, different cup. Lots of orange peel, cinnamon, spice and balsamic vinegar notes. Orange peels, browned sugar. A melange of mouth-filling flavors with a sustained, sweet finish. A symphony of flavors that say special occasion. Additional cupping notes per Coffee Review: Bizarre, beautiful, shocking, intricate. Tropical fruit (lychee, passionfruit), sweet herb (clove, cilantro, dill, spearmint), dark chocolate, musk, yogurt. In structure quite sweet, roundly tart (think unsweetened yogurt), deeply savory. Lightly syrupy in mouthfeel. Passionfruit, chocolate, dill all make distinct appearances in the drying but sweetly and richly complex finish.
$60.00 per 1/2 pound
Only a tiny amount remains for one more roast on Tuesday 11/26. Panama Perci Geisha Natural is an extremely limited production coffee lot from Ninety Plus Gesha Estates. We just received a 96 point rating from Coffee Review (November 2019) for this outstanding coffee. This is the Gesha (aka Geisha) cultivar, dry processed. Make no mistake, this is powerful coffee, a statement of what special processing can bring to the Geisha varietal. Like other Natural processed coffee the fruit was dried on the husk so there is pronounced fruit penetration flavor. There is red tinge on the green coffee, a residual of dried pulp. But Gesha Estates, operated by founder Joseph Brodsky, is a processing specialist in addition to growing Geisha trees on their large, gorgeous property in Volcan Panama. We visited the farm in 2018, touring the fields. But their processing center is off limits and their methods closely guarded. Admittedly, the price is expensive but the coffee is scarce and the flavor experience intense and unique.
Coffee is a grower and producer of single-origin, single-variety coffee in both Panama and Ethiopia. They say "We are dedicated to creating a remarkable taste experience through process innovation. We are stewards for taste committed to leaving coffee better than we found it." It is obvious from first taste that you are having a unique flavor experience. While there is secrecy surrounding the Ninety Plus processing methods our experience tells us they employ some variation of anaerobic fermentation and slow drying, collectively known as ASD. With this type of processing coffee cherries are kept in an oxygen free environment for a number of days which concentrates flavors as the cherries ferment in their own juices. Following release from that fermentation cherries can be dried over a very extended period to further concentrate tastes. We cannot state this is how they are producing the flavors you will experience but it is a possible way. Other producers are utilizing Anaerobic Slow Dry on their coffees to enhance and deepen flavor characteristics and we think this may be how Perci achieved its tremendous depth and intensity of flavor.
Ninety Plus Gesha Estates is an ecologically integrated collection of distinct micro farms committed to the understanding and sustainable cultivation of the heirloom Ethiopia Gesha coffee variety in Panama. While their Gesha work in Panama is relatively new, the group has been working for years in Ethiopia working with heirloom varietals and with a particular emphasis on the refinement of processing technique to produce outstanding flavors through the use of their methods. Some years ago they acquired a 134 hectare property in Silla Del Pando, about 15 minutes outside Volcan, Panama to grow and develop the Gesha varietal and combine it with cultivation and processing experience they had perfected in Ethiopia. 35 hectares have been protected as indigenous rainforest. The property teems with native plants and animals, a kilometer of wild river frontage, and an extensive program to replant indigenous shade trees throughout the property. The company works to be a globally leading model of boutique coffee production and biodiversity.
Coffee Review, November 2019:
The Champion of Shock and Surprise: Certainly the most startling and extreme profile among the seven experimental process coffees reviewed for this report is the top-rated Willoughby’s Panama Perci Geisha (96) generated by the relentlessly innovating Panama producer Ninety Plus Gesha Estates. Ninety Plus is quite reticent (okay, secretive) about the details of its processing experiments, but this sample projects with a particular, even disturbing intensity certain of the tendencies cited for the other experimental samples described here. Along with an explosion of pleasingly familiar aromatics (tropical fruit, dark chocolate) come a whole shelf of herb and spice, a yogurt-like lactic-acid twist to the structure, and deep, musky suggestions.
Harvest months are typically mid-November to February. Ninety Plus Gesha Estates utilizes the services of about 25 members of the local Ngöbe tribe to assist on the farm, and they have constructed new worker housing during the last harvest season. The Ngobe tribe is extremely gifted at harvesting and working with coffee and they are treasured in Panama.
Ninety Plus coffees command top dollar in markets worldwide for their unique flavors and they have, in part, created solutions to the impoverished lives of farm workers who have suffered from low wages and belittlement in the workplace. They make make humanity a priority, providing fair pay and living conditions for its growing workforce, and establishing a culture built on taste, education, and collaboration on its farms. With education at the center, they create new opportunities, incentives to advance, and competitive compensation for our employees. Ninety Plus workers gain ownership over their work, their quality of life and happiness improve, and our coffee excels. They have constructed an expanding community of farm workers who are united and inspired by the common objective to improve coffee.
This coffee is sold whole bean only.