Burundi Murago Washing Station
Cup Characteristics: The Bourbon variety lends itself to deep and rich chocolate toned coffees. This highly fragrant example has flavors of sweet cherry and honey. It is clean, crisp and replete with red apple acidity. Long finish. Clear, well balanced coffee.
$13.99 per pound
Coffee in Burundi is mainly grown by smallholders who do not process it themselves but rather bring cherry that they grow to local washing stations. The best run stations pay more for quality cherry, meaning they are all fully ripe, well developed and brought rapidly so they can be immediately processed. Over time we have had coffee from numerous washing stations. This newest arrival is from the Murago washing station, located in Muyinga province in northern Burundi, close to Rwanda border and in the area where high elevation coffee is mainly grown and where most of the wetmills are clustered.
Until 2012 Murago was a state owned washing station. At that time it was purchased by KALICO, an enterprise mainly owned by women and whose board president is Ms. Angele Ciza. KALICO owns seven washing stations altogether. Murago is located at 1650 meters and most of the area farms which bring their coffee here for processing are in the 1600 to 1800 meter range.
The methods of processing used at this cooperative and at many better washing stations are traditional to Burundi, where the coffee cherries are pulped and "dry fermented" for up to 12 hours before being fully washed with clean mountain water for anywhere between 12 and 24 hours. Lastly the beans are soaked for an additional 12 to 18 hours before being dried in parchment on raised beds. This process, in addition to the high elevation where the coffee is grown, equates to a high quality and clean cup.
The overall quality of the coffee in Burundi, particularly in the northwestern hills, is high and improving steadily as premiums for top quality are being paid to farmer members of each washing station. Since coffee marketing legislation was enacted in 2008, direct sales contracts became permitted between Burundian producers and international coffee buyers, roasters and importers. Further, the legislation permits the payment of a quality premium to those responsible for producing "specialty" coffee (producers, washing station management teams and dry millers). Coffee must be harvested only when ripe and be processed promptly. This follows a similar model in Rwanda where coffee quality has also seen major improvement in recent years.
In Burundi the majority of coffee is grown by subsistence farmers. In fact, about 800,000 families in this small country of only 9 million people, grow or are involved with coffee; it accounts for 80 percent of Burundi's export revenue. Almost all of it is Arabica and of the Bourbon varietal. Farmers grow crops for their own food supply but also grow some cash crops, such as coffee. Most farms have between 50 and 250 trees, only enough to a couple of sacks of coffee in total. The coffee, once picked, has to be rushed to the local washing station.
Specialty coffee has been growing in Burundi in recent years because it earns farmers more money. Indeed natural conditions augur well for growing top coffee as there is volcanic soil and mist covered mountains, all set almost astride the equator. Selected lots can be had, often without pedigree, but with a very sophisticated palate - a terrific situation for savvy consumers. Great quality at attractive prices. High grown coffee from Burundi, particularly those from Kayanza, Ngozi and Muyinga provinces are making a name for themselves as single origin espresso coffees.
Farmers: More than 1000 small family farmers
Washing Station (processing): Murago Washing Station / Cooperative
Region: Muyinga. Northern Burundi
Station elevation: 1650 meters
Processing Method:Fully washed, drying on raised beds
Variety: Bourbon, Jackson, Mibirzi (all Bourbon derivatives)
Harvest: March through July